日本人はどのように現代のファッションにたどりついたのですか？
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ANSWER
時代ごとに紹介していきますね。今回は1990年代後半、グランジとヒップホップです。 1980年代のファッションの特徴は、ポストモダン（近代が終わり次の新しい時代を切り開く動き）、ゴージャスな装飾などに象徴されます。1990年代になると、よりミニマル（最小限）なデザイン、そしてコンセプチュアル（ファッションにコンセプトを取り入れる動き）な方向へと変わってきました。 装飾をそぎ落とし、シンプルで機能美を追求する動きと、高級志向、消費社会を象徴するシステムへの警鐘など、「コンセプト」をファッションで表現する動きが出てきたということです。グランジファッション
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1990年代に流行したグランジロックから生まれたファッションが「グランジファッション」です。
グランジファッションのグランジとは「grungy」（汚い）というスラングが元となっています。着古したネルシャツやカーディガン、ダメージジーンズとスニーカーというのが代表的なスタイルです。着くずしたりレイヤードしたりすることで個性を出していました。![90年代風グランジファッションとは？2019版グランジコーデ&定番アイテム！ | YOTSUBA[よつば]](https://i.pinimg.com/564x/2f/1d/c5/2f1dc5e225102b8e1c280364e26d15bd.jpg)
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グランジと言えば「ニルヴァーナ」
グランジと聞いてまず思い浮かべるのは「ニルヴァーナ」だと思います。メタルやハードコアの流れを組んだグランジロックの代表バンドとして今でも影響を与え続けています。ファッションとしてのグランジはニルヴァーナのボーカル、カート・コバーンがグランジファッションの「神」のような存在になってますよね。
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ヒップホップファッション
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グランジロックが流行し始めたのと同時期、アメリカではヒップホップが注目を集めてきていました。
それはNYのアフリカンアメリカン（黒人）のカルチャーでした。日常の言葉にリズムを乗せる「ラップ」で黒人社会のアイデンティティを示すものとして誕生しました。
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「ラップ」はメロディ、コードを使わずに、リズムだけを使い言葉にある韻律（声の高さ、イントネーション、リズム、ポーズ）を強調し、主張や思いを伝えます。
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ヒップホップファッションとしての特徴はオーバーサイズのトレーナー、ゴールドチェーン、スニーカーやティンバーランドのブーツ、スポーツジャージーなどが基本です。 オーバーサイズのパンツは下着が見えるくらいまで下げて穿いたり、シューレースは結ばずにそのままシューズを履いたりしていました。これは刑務所の中から生まれたスタイルで、社会に対する不平等を皮肉ってできたもので、スタイルで常識に従わない姿勢を見せるものでした。 ヒップホップスタイルは黒人に対する人種差別や不平等など社会問題に抗う姿勢から誕生したものでした。 しかし、そのような時代背景はそっちのけで、ヒップホップは商業主義の中に引き込まれていきました。その流れで日本でもヒップホップミュージックやヒップホップファッションが流行しました。 ボク自身も高校生のときに分け分からず「RUN DMC」のCD買った記憶があります。ファッション的にはパンクファッション（空前のバンドブームでした）から渋カジへの移行中みたいな時代だったと思います。 いずれのスタイルにせよ、何スタイル、という線引きがしっかりしていた気がします。スタイル同士をミックスさせたり、あるスタイルにテイストの違うアイテムを取り入れたりすることは「ダサい」とされていました。面白い時代ではありましたが、今に比べるとファッションのルールが強かった気がします。
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